What Concerns me is the High Pressures Associated with this Powder.
In my Experience (Mostly w/ Straight Walled Cartridges) is that the Higher Press. Powders tend to be Very Picky as to Bullet wt. and Less Accurate than those w/ ----------------------------------
Any Recommendations as to Which Brass seems to Work Best.
If the Same Holds True as with my .308 -Hornady, Fed, Lake City & Rem will All be Good Choices.
Personally Don't Like Win Brass-Too Thin.
Thanx 4 your Reply,
US58
Personally I think all the talk of pressure issues using CFE223 are overblown. If all you look at is the primer then you might see some pressure issues long before you reach the upper limits of the manufacturer's data. What a lot of people don't take into consideration is what other factors cause false pressure signs on primers.
If you full length size or just shoulder bump your brass, and move the shoulder back closer to the minimum SAAMI spec (as is often the case when following the die manufacturer's instructions) then the case has extra space in the chamber. When the cartridge is fired the primer is first pushed out of the primer pocket and then slammed back in as the case expands to the full length of the chamber. This not only gives one a flattened primer but in Remington's with factory bolts, you also get the false cratering caused by the chamfer at the end of the firing pin hole.
To minimize this buy a cartridge gauge or a headspace measuring tool for your caliper. Adjust the sizing die so the shoulder is only bumped back about .002". Just enough to insure a relatively easy bolt closing on a reliable basis.
Oversizing also gives causes the infamous "Ejector horseshoe" but that tends to show up as the pressures increase. Pay closer attention to that pressure sign.
When I evaluate a load that fits within the load range published, I "note" things like primer flattening, "Pay attention" to the ejector marks, and then "Stop" when I've reached the point where the bolt gets sticky. It's important to pay attention to what a "regular bolt lift" feels like so you know when to call it "stiff, sticky, or hard".
With all my CFE223 loads, both in .223 and .308, I have yet to see excessive pressure signs if I properly size my cases (which also prevents premature head separations). I have loaded to the published max and perhaps could have exceeded that if it weren't for the fact that I had already found my "upper accuracy node".
+1 on the CFE 223. I bought a jug of it when all of the other good .223 powders vanished from the local gun store shelves. I haven't burned enough of it yet to see it's copper eliminating benefits, but It is really showing good accuracy with some load testing using 69 grain Sierras. I'm going to try it with some lighter bullets eventually.
I've loaded it for my AR's and bolt action .223's using bullet weights from 52 gr to 73 gr and the only limit to accuracy has been ME.
In both of the rifles I've used it in it's resistance to copper fouling has been well noted. In a factory Rem SPS-Tactical .223 it's so easy to clean it's amazing. A wet patch and soak (using Butches) followed by a couple of dry patches and no more fouling. I periodically use either Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner or a patch soaked with Sweet's to see if I can coax any "blue" out of the bore. So far-------Nada, None, Zilch, etc.
With my .308, both with a Remington 5-R barrel and now the replacement Benchmark 5-C, still no copper fouling. Even the soot that seems to be a little more than other powders comes out with a wet then a couple dry patches. No "Hard" carbon fouling, even in the neck area that can be a PITA.
Is it "Magic" and actually "Erase" copper like it's name implies? Probably not. As I understand, the formula of the powder merely prevents copper from actually plating itself to the metal of the bore.
I love it for it's metering qualities. I now have a powder that I can use for .223 and .308 loading on my Dillon 650. When checking charge weights periodically I rarely find a load that's off by even .1 gr. I think the only thing that might meter better would be water
Now if we could just buy more.
On Winchester Brass, yes, it is thinner than some others. I still like it a lot. With regular annealing I can get a minimum of 10 loads out of it with some of my "collection" over 5 years old. I like Lapua too but it holds about 2.5% less powder than the Win so it can be speed limiting. Right now Winchester brass seems to be in storage with all the Varget. Haven't seen any on the local shelves for over 2 years now.