no better than 5 inch groups at 50 yards!
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View Poll Results: what should i do with gun? and if i get rid of what caliber would u replace it with?

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  • send it back to remington?

    11 61.11%
  • trade it in?

    1 5.56%
  • send it to a gunsmith?

    2 11.11%
  • sell it?

    0 0%
  • 222

    0 0%
  • 243

    0 0%
  • 270

    0 0%
  • 308

    8 44.44%
  • 22-250

    2 11.11%
  • other?

    1 5.56%
Multiple Choice Poll.
Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Dec 2013
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    Question no better than 5 inch groups at 50 yards!

    hello. im new here and this is my first post. i have a 700 stainless 223 varmint rifle. when i first got it it jammed really bad to the point sometimes i had to beat the bolt with something to open it to release spent shells and would misfire sometimes and all the shells had a deep scratch down the side like it had a metal burr in chamber despite multiple cleanings i couldn't fix it. so i sent it back to Remington and they rebored the gun and put a new bolt in it. since i got it back it operates very good. no more jams and fires every shot however it shoots all over the place. I've tried every kind of ammo i can find from 55 grain Remington fmj , ballistic tips, federal, winchester 62 grain, etc!!! nothing will shoot a group better than 5 inches at 50 yards. the scope is a 3-9x40 nikon bdc. it is mounted solid and there is no give or play in scope mounts. scope was new when i installed it. I'm at a loss. this gun should be a tack driver and i don't trust it enuff to even hunt with. I'm gonna try the scope on another gun tom to make sure the scope isn't defective but i really don't think it is. i believe its the rifle. has anyone else ever had this problem or heard of a gun scattering bullits this far off? i love the gun and have a huge farm which i would like this to be my daily rifle to carry but i cant until i figure something out. any suggestions? should i send it back to Remington or just call it a lemon and trade it off for something else. it was a gift and has some sentimental value so i really wish i could get it right. I'm aggravated and at a total loss. not to mention have spent a fortune on shells. i did the break-in with cold barrel cleaning after each of first 5 shots then shooting 5 then cleaning etc. I've done everything right but it just seems to be a terrible shooting gun and have never heard of that before. anyone else? oh also im using a caldwell lead sled on a solid bench to shoot off so its not human error. its steady and humanly possible when i shoot. actually better than i can hold alone. so thats not a factor either.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Winxp_Man's Avatar
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    While .223 Rem is a nice round the longer range round will be a .308. reason I say a .308 Win is because of how available the products for it are. Yes there are others that will blow by a .308 Win but for an entry level caliber with mass amounts of stuff on the market for it is a .308 Win
    shoot to kill not wound !

    Firearm Pimp

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    222
    It is very possible that it could be something as simple as re-crowning. I had a .223 VSS that didn't like any factory round I put through it. I had the crown re-cut, and it instantly improved. I didn't get it too shoot sub MOA until I hand loaded for it. I wouldn't give up on it yet.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Deadshot2's Avatar
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    A rifle that shoots that bad no doubt has a problem with something loose or interfering with the barrel.

    First things I'd do is check the scope mount. Make sure the base(s) is properly torqued to the action and blue loctite is used on the threads. Next, make sure that the scope ring cross bolts are properly torqued if using Weaver or Pic. Rail mounts.

    Now for the scope. With the rifle firmly in something like a vise, lead sled, or heavy sandbags, does the reticle move on the target as the magnification is changed? If so you have a "sloppy scope" and you may be fortunate if you're getting groups as small as 5" @ 50 yards.

    Then move on to the Stock. Is the barrel floated from muzzle back to bedding (no farther forward of the recoil lug than 1" or so). If it's pillar bedded do the action screws tighten evenly with very little turning after contact with the bottom metal? When tightening the action screws does the barrel move much where the barrel extends from the forend of the stock?

    If you have a Hogue overmolded stock (affectionately known as a "Gumby Stock") it may have so much flex that the barrel is bouncing off the forend with every shot. Only cure here is to replace it. Look for a take off stock from a 5-R Milspec. At least they are stiff varmint stocks from H-S Precision.

    If all is secure and the action properly seated in the stock, then it's merely a matter of trigger and shooter. For the trigger, get rid of the "Remmy" and buy a good replacement. Timney is highly rated and not all that much money ($125).

    For the shooter, it's a matter of making sure that you are doing the SAME thing EVERY SHOT. Many shooters send their rounds downrange with some drastic changes in position with every shot. They also have a habit of "looking up" or "ducking recoil".

    Your rifle should be able to shoot 1" groups with any GOOD factory ammo if everything is tight. When I said "Good", 55gr FMJ-BT ammo is not included. Try some Hornady TAP, or some 69 gr HP's.

    The 55gr FMJ-BT ammo is for close quarter military use. Rarely does one find it accurate. I can shoot, from my SPS-TAC .223, 5 rounds into a 1/4" group at 100 yards using 52 gr Handloads. When I use the FMJ-BT's, even in a worked up hand load, the groups open up to 2", from the same rifle.

    As far as I'm concerned, looking for accuracy with the Mil-Spec bullets is like trying to win a Grand Prix race with a Geo Metro.

  6. #5
    Senior Member Winxp_Man's Avatar
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    First off check the muzzle like Crockett said. Next check everything off on Deadshots list. Then grab a box of Federal Gold Metal Match 69 gr ammo and if this ammo does not even shoot decent then you might have a lemon. Maybe when you sent it back to have the chamber fixed they didn't reall get it right. I have heard of stuff like this it happens and we have to learn all things human made are prone to errors.
    Last edited by Winxp_Man; 12-18-2013 at 02:51 AM.
    shoot to kill not wound !

    Firearm Pimp

  7. #6
    Senior Member Deadshot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winxp_Man View Post
    First off check the muzzle like Crockett said. Next check everything off on Deadshots list. Then grab a box of Federal Gold Metal Match 69 gr ammo and if this ammo does not even shoot decent then you might have a lemon. Maybe when you sent it back to have the chamber fixed they didn't reall get it right. I have heard of stuff like this it happens and we have to learn all things human made are prone to errors.
    Quick way to see if a chamber was cut correctly is to check a group of fired cases. Check for concentricity the full length of the body and then the neck. Some people don't believe that a chamber reamer which is round can actually cut an egg shaped chamber and also cut it off-center to the bore. Fired cases will reveal a lot if you carefully measure them.

    Also, don't overlook the barrel itself. Take a moment and look down the bore. With good lighting, when looking through the chamber, the muzzle opening should show up in a series of concentric circles as the light reflects off the inside of the bore. If the "circles" are not uniform, and look a little fatter on one side or another, your barrel is not straight.


    You might want to strap the rifle down in a Lead Sled and see if the POI moves as the barrel heats. Compare 5 rapid fire rounds with 5 rounds fired with a good 5-10 minute cool off periods between them.

  8. #7
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deadshot2 View Post
    Quick way to see if a chamber was cut correctly is to check a group of fired cases. Check for concentricity the full length of the body and then the neck. Some people don't believe that a chamber reamer which is round can actually cut an egg shaped chamber and also cut it off-center to the bore. Fired cases will reveal a lot if you carefully measure them.

    Also, don't overlook the barrel itself. Take a moment and look down the bore. With good lighting, when looking through the chamber, the muzzle opening should show up in a series of concentric circles as the light reflects off the inside of the bore. If the "circles" are not uniform, and look a little fatter on one side or another, your barrel is not straight.


    You might want to strap the rifle down in a Lead Sled and see if the POI moves as the barrel heats. Compare 5 rapid fire rounds with 5 rounds fired with a good 5-10 minute cool off periods between them.
    Wow, really this is something that I have seen only more times than I can count! Some may sound a bit qrazy but they happen.
    1. Check caliber, 223/556 are is it 300blk or even 308 but jamming on a bolt action could be the swelling of the smaller case in a larger bore rifle
    2. If caliber turns out that is 300 blk and your firing 223/556 then rifle round fired thru .8" barrel would make Seneca of a drop rate of 5" even more at 50 yrds.
    3. If caliber is correct: then Map your optics on a proven weapon! If your optics don't map send your optic back or spend more money on the next optic after return that POS!


 

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