Problem with riveted extractor
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  1. #1

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    Oct 2013
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    Hello everyone,
    This is my first visit to this great forum. I would first like to say how great it is that a forum exists in which the specifics of the wonderful Remmy 700 are discussed. That said, I will begin by providing some history about myself and my experience with the 700.

    I own, have been working with, and reloading for the 700 line for more than 30 years. I am not a formal expert in this respect, but I confidently know my way around this action.

    The issue:
    I'm currently experiencing concerns a LA belted magnum (7mm RM) 26" SS version. This is a bone stock rifle. It was purchases new in 2008 and has never extracted properly from the first cartridge and to date. My Son bought it the day he returned from his deployment to Afghanistan. He purchased several boxes of factory ammunition, Win, RP, and Federal, as he was only buying factory for the brass. and the opportunity to be able to shoot his new rifle ASAP.

    The first symptoms of a problem happened on the first cartridge fired through his rifle, which had been properly cleaned prior to being fired for that first time. The first notion something was awry was when he chambered the first cartridge. The bolt would barely close, very stiff and felt similar to how a cartridge that needs the shoulder bumped. Checked all possible common causes prior to firing that first round, such as scope base screws that may be interfering with the bolt and close inspection of the lug recesses and chamber, checking for any anomaly, debris or other noticeable issue. Considering that the bolt would close, but with an unusual degree of resistance, he fired the first cartridge. Upon attempting to extract it, we discovered that the bolt was excessively stiff upon lifting. Then when attempting to slide the bolt back we discovered that it would not slide back at all. It would go down and up, nut not slide open. Rather than wait several minutes for me to retrieve a rod to tap the cartridge out with the bolt, he use brute force on the bolt, thus succeeding in extracting the fired cartridge. Prior to chambering the next round, I inspected the brass, bolt, and chamber to see if I could identify the cause, to which there was no obvious indication of what caused this malfunction. So following that cartridge each one and those with different head stamps all presented the same issue, but each began to get easier and easier to extract. However, we began to experience a problem with the extractor grabbing onto the cartridge rim, which I discovered was the result of the extractor being damaged by my Son using brute force against the extractor.

    So here we are, some 5 yrs. later and the extractor is only functioning intermittently. So having replaced a number of 700 extractors, including the riveted style such as this one, I approached this with confidence, and a well established working knowledge. However, after replacement, the new extractor will not reach the case rim at all. I assume this is an indication that the grove that the extractor seats into is slightly over sized, expanded by at least .010", thus allowing the the new extractor to move up, and or, down. I saw him using a mallet on the bolt handle during that first range firing, so I imagine that probably caused this particular issue.

    Solutions:
    Having positively determined that the new extractor is not grabbing the case rim leaves me with options as follows:

    (A) an expensive trip to Remington, as this is not a warranty job after 5 years.
    (B) Shim the new extractor so that it will reach the case rim
    (C) Take it to a gun smith an have a Sako style extractor conversion
    (D) Would slightly re-shaping the new extractor so it has an extended reach of .010" be a better option, thus avoiding binding against the case head.

    My Son needs this rifle for an up coming hunt, so the Sako extractor is not something time will allow for at this particular time. So I'm thinking of just shimming it, at least for the time being, and then having the Sako job done after his hunts are complete.

    My question for the experts here is, have you ever come across an extractor issue with the 700 similar to this one, in which the grove was expanded? And should I shim it on top of the extractor, the bottom, or should I just shim under it enough to compensate for the amount of lift that is off setting it from the case head? My primary concern is, I don't want to create a binding situation. And working in small increments won't be a problem as I have precision hardened SS in .002" thickness's to use as shims.

    I've personally replaced 7 or 8 of these, one riveted one a couple years ago, the other's have been the old snap in style, but none have ever been the result of an expanded grove. So does my temporary fix sound feasible?

    700284u

  2. #2
    Senior Member Deadshot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7mm284u View Post
    My question for the experts here is, have you ever come across an extractor issue with the 700 similar to this one, in which the grove was expanded? And should I shim it on top of the extractor, the bottom, or should I just shim under it enough to compensate for the amount of lift that is off setting it from the case head? My primary concern is, I don't want to create a binding situation. And working in small increments won't be a problem as I have precision hardened SS in .002" thickness's to use as shims.

    I've personally replaced 7 or 8 of these, one riveted one a couple years ago, the other's have been the old snap in style, but none have ever been the result of an expanded grove. So does my temporary fix sound feasible?

    700284u
    First off, is this a riveted or snap-in extractor?

    If a snap in, remove the extractor and reshape it (bend flatter) and be very careful when re-installing. It's not uncommon for the extractor to be bent so it won't spring out enough to engage the case. I've had them get sticky so that when chambering a round the extra friction on both ends causes them to bend, then merely hide in the recess and not spring back.

    Once you get the extractor properly formed then make sure to keep a drop of lube on each end and regularly clean the area out. I spray mine with Brake-Kleen and blow them out with compressed air on a regular basis.

    You also need to make sure that when the extractor clip is installed, it is free to flex back into the recess and spring back. The "hook" needs to slope slightly in toward the bolt face so that the case head slides smoothly over the "ramp" and the clip then snaps into the extractor groove. If there is a burr on the inner edge, polish it off with some 1500-2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (available at most Auto Parts stores).

    As for new extractors, I prefer to just replace the whole bolt. PTG makes some great bolts with either cut-outs for Sako style extractors or the M-16 type extractor (which I prefer and have on one rifle). The great thing about PTG bolts is that you can get a One Piece bolt and the handle won't "un-solder" under a hard pull. Their manufacturing tolerances are tight enough where the bolt I bought headspaced just perfect (factory barrel and chamber).

    Now, if the extractor is riveted, just get a dental pick and use it to carefully reshape the clip in the recess so it functions properly. Remington Bolts have a recess in all of them that many would consider "enlarged". If the nose of a Remington bolt has any part of it enlarged it won't fit the recess in the barrel tenon and the handle won't come close to closing.

  3. #3
    Junior Member
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    Jan 2014
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    Hi 7mm284,

    Sounds like Deadshot has you covered with fixes for your extractor problems, I personally would have called Remington and told them it was time for them to fix what they let leave the factory in a unusable condition and shipped it back to them the next day after getting back from the range.
    That is why they are not taking care of the problems before they go into the box , nobody makes them stand behind the rifles that leave in the condition your sons rifle was in.
    They probabaly said they had a 100% success rate in Quality Control that year too.
    I love my SS Model 700 in 300 WM, but it has performed flawlessly since it came out of the box.
    .Hope you get the problem fixed.
    Thanks for Sharing with us 7mm284.

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  5. #4
    Junior Member
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    I am having the same problem with my new 700 sps in .300 WM. Upon firing, I have to beat the bolt back, though my extractor works fine. Just had my GS take it down & he said he's never seen such a rough chamber before, & that the bolt handle appears to be soldered on too close to where it " breaks " to start the cam open process that it needs slapped up to initiate it. He polished the chamber & said if it doesn't wear in to break open easier he could add a touch of metal to the bolt area to make it break sooner if need be, but he believes the " hanging up " deal was due to the chamber being so rough it was grabbing the case at the neck & polishing it up should take care of it. P.S. I didn't send it in because i had a muzzle break put on it & didn't want to hear em complain about it not being their fault a thing happens to this rifle because it has been modified from their " superior " design. I'll post the results after the next range trip.
    Last edited by Joeyvco; 01-16-2016 at 02:07 AM.

  6. #5
    Senior Member Deadshot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joeyvco View Post
    I am having the same problem with my new 700 sps in .300 WM. Upon firing, I have to beat the bolt back, though my extractor works fine. Just had my GS take it down & he said he's never seen such a rough chamber before, & that the bolt handle appears to be soldered on too close to where it " breaks " to start the cam open process that it needs slapped up to initiate it. He polished the chamber & said if it doesn't wear in to break open easier he could add a touch of metal to the bolt area to make it break sooner if need be, but he believes the " hanging up " deal was due to the chamber being so rough it was grabbing the case at the neck & polishing it up should take care of it. P.S. I didn't send it in because i had a muzzle break put on it & didn't want to hear em complain about it not being their fault a thing happens to this rifle because it has been modified from their " superior " design. I'll post the results after the next range trip.
    Remington has produced a lot of bolts that are "out of time", meaning that the handle is not soldered in the correct place for it to hit the cam on the action.

    There are two cures. One is to take it to a gunsmith and have him re-position the bolt handle on the bolt body. While at it he should also add a couple of machine screws to secure the handle in addition to the silver solder. The second cure, and one I prefer, is to replace the bolt entirely with a a PTG one-piece bolt. You can also order the new bolt with a choice of extractor options from the OE snap clip to more positive extractor systems like Sako or M-16 style. I prefer the M-16 style extractor myself. You can order these from Midway and if you're really lucky, and it's a good chance you could be if the factory bolt hasn't been replaced, the bolt will be a drop-in. At the worst you'll need to have a gunsmith headspace it. My local gunsmith charges ~$300 for bolt and headspacing but I did it all myself on my .308. All I needed to do to get the bolt properly headspaced was to radius the ends of the locking lugs exactly the same as the stock bolt and it was perfect.

    Remington has several shortcomings in their rifles that would be easy to solve from the factory. Bolt assembly, the X-Mark Pro trigger, and the worlds longest freebore/throats.

  7. #6
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    Thanks deadshot2, kinda what my GS is saying also. I'll throw a few more down the tube & see what she does

  8. #7
    Junior Member
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    Aug 2013
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    Hard bolt closing: I had problems like this years ago related to a jammed ejectors


 

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