Quote Originally Posted by 62flint View Post
Well, I would consider another rifle possibly in 6.5 creedmore .. But I am going to keep a 308. I have about 300 pieces of unfired Lapua brass, and a 1000 or two 168 and 175 smk bullets not to mention berger hornady etc... My point is I have two much 308 stuf to change.
I think I am going to rebarrel it and get the action trued/blue printed. What about the bolt? Be a good time to put a new bolt in also. Like a ptg bolt. Is it worth it? Does the fluting do any thing besides look cool? Whats the difference between the benchrest firing pin and standard. pros and cons?
What barrel profile should I go with? I probably get it fluted for heat. I really like to keep the set up around or under 15 pounds.
If you are going to get the action blueprinted this would be a fantastic time to put in a PT&G bolt. Make it a one-piece and even add the M-16 style extractor. I like Flutes on the bolt for the same reason AI put them on their AW (Arctic Warfare) rifles. The flutes recuce the surface contact area of the bolt to action and in cold weather it's less area for frozen water or lube to cause the bolt to freeze up. Yes, they do look nice but spiral flutes (just the milled ones for my bolt) are actually a functional improvement. Bolt timing is also an issue with Remington Bolts and if you have a gunsmith true the action there's a good chance that the new bolt will be properly times as it's ground to Remington spec's. For some reason the stock Remington bolts are hit and miss (Mostly miss) when it comes to bolt handle attachment. Some are OK and others are off so that you don't get any primary extraction when the bolt is fully lifted. One case that doesn't spring back enough and you now end up teaching everyone within hearing distance a bunch of four lettered words.

Now, after all that, ask your gunsmith what he'd charge to blueprint your action with a new PT&G one piece spiral fluted bolt. If it gets up around $500, just order a trued action from PT&G. They come with the bolt I described that's fitted to the action for minimal "slop" (no need to shim). Ready for a new barrel. If you do that, order the trued action without trigger. Less money and you don't have to take the X-Mark Pro trigger they include with their trued actions. The actions come in Stainless or Chrome/Moly. I'd go with the C/M and have it Cerakoted if it were mine.