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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Remington 700 SPS I think, its got that funky green stock and factory threaded barrel.

The only things I've done too it is added a Vortex Scope, SureFire Muzzle Break and Surefire 556-RC can...

The problem is, its seems to have started having what I'm going to call lite primer strikes...

Sunday, my father and I were getting enjoying the day shooting some long guns and mine started acting up... I fired the 1st 12 or so shots with no issues, then it started randomly acting up.

It would click, but no bang... I'd eject the round and see that it was dimpled, but had not gone off.

These were all factory, at least two different brands and loads, no reloads...
Box 1, 5 out of 20, Dimple, but no fire
Box 2, 3 out of 20, Dimpled, but no fire
Box 3, 4 out of 20, Dimpled, but no fire
Pulled the bolt, visually inspected it, looked fine, cleaned and lubed it anyway.
Box 4, 3 out of 20, Dimpled, but no fire.

This gun is maybe a year or just over old and has maybe 250-300 rounds though it, including the ones mentioned above...

Any ideas why it started doing this and what the fix would be???

Never had an issue like this with any of my bolt guns or ARs for that matter, so I'm kinda lost... I can't see the bolt or parts in it worn out already, but who knows...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Certainly not the only possibility but it's possible that the bolt was not fully closed on the round. I recently had a FTF and as I waited to open the bolt I noticed the bolt was not quite closed. The ejected round was slightly dimpled and fired on the next attempt.

You may want to read the following thread:

http://www.700rifle.com/forum/50-general-model-700-s/6481-783-30-06-only-leaves-soft-indent-primer.html
Thanks, I'll give it a read...

On the bolt not being fully closed, that could have been a possibility for the 1st round or two, but after that I was making sure the bolt was all the way down and snug...

I'm hoping maybe to get to mess with it this weekend some more... Be my luck, it'll be another 4-5 weeks before I can get back too it...
 

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Good luck.
 

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Hey smullen I have rem700 in 223 and I have had this happen with federal 223 100 round pack that you get in the Walmart. Sometimes I get about 1 round per box of 100 that don't fire. I would always blame the ammo as it never happened with my reloads. So who knows. I don't know I guess. The only thing I want to try is to shoot the misfired round in another gun but never had an opportunity to try that.

I would say it's ammo. :0)
 

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That should be easy to check. Rechamber the round after firing another that goes bang and see if it goes bang. Or find a reloader that has a headspace gauge that can measure the head space dimension for you.

Could be a case of short headspace and/or primer pocket too deep.
 

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If none of the above fixes the problem, the next thing I would be checking is the bolt assembly itself.

Dirt and debris accumulate inside the bolt body and will effectively shorten the firing pin protrusion, causing a light strike.

Another possibility is a broken main spring. I've only seen this once; and it was a .223. This gun would misfire one or two from every box of ammo. Replaced it with an aftermarket, heavy spring and never had an issue since.

I make a bolt disassembly and cleaning and relube part of my cleanup regimen every few hundred rounds or so.

Beandog

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The 4 boxes I had "Lite Strikes" on were at least 3 different brands of new ammo...

This weekend, if I get time, I plan to at least try and disassemble and check the pin and for any debree and or excess lube...

Like mentioned above, I also thought of trying to fire the rounds in another rifle...

Now I just have to get time.
 

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Pick out a few of the non-firing cases, and pull the bullets on them. Dump out the powder too. Mark them with a Sharpie as to brand. Now try feeding them into your rifle, and fiddle with the bolt to see if you can get them to reliably fire. Since it's primer only, you can do this in your backyard if needed. There may be a sweet-spot or you may find that primer depth is different on these cases.
 

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Two things to check. First, close the bolt with no round in the chamber and see if there is space below the bolt handle and the stock at the bottom of the cutout the handle sits in. Sometimes there can be extra material there that prevents the handle from fully closing. Also possible a piece of crud has taken up residence there. Dry fire while watching the bolt handle. If it looks like it wants to jump up or down a significant amount when the firing pin drops the striker is hitting the cocking ramp in the bolt body. Some gunsmithing will be required.

Second, remove the firing pin assembly and give the inside of the bolt body a serious cleaning. Pay extra attention to the shoulder that the firing pin hits when it is released by the trigger. Any bits of crud left in the bolt at manufacture can pile up and be pounded into a solid mass that reduces the firing pin protrusion. Release the firing pin so it moves to it's fired position and measure the amount of protrusion. Should be in the .050" range. Just use your calipers depth gauge end. Measure total depth of bolt nose, record, then measure the distance from bolt outer rim to firing pin tip and subtract from depth. Difference should give you the protrusion.

Most rifles that leave the factory will have a proper headspace and unless the barrel is loose that rarely changes. Look to the bolt for your solution.
 

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smullen, are you actually getting light strikes or are you getting good strikes with no bang. I had this issue and after contacting Federal they told me to avoid using their ammo that had the mil-spec primers in my bolt gun because I "might get failures to fire". The mil-spec stuff is intended for the floating firing pin guns such as AR's. The mil-spec info is printed on the back of their boxes. Funny thing is, the only one I'm having any issues with is their new Ae223 military grade. All other AE and Federal have been working fine so far. You haven't said what brands you've tried, so I thought I would just throw this out there for ya. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
smullen, are you actually getting light strikes or are you getting good strikes with no bang. I had this issue and after contacting Federal they told me to avoid using their ammo that had the mil-spec primers in my bolt gun because I "might get failures to fire". The mil-spec stuff is intended for the floating firing pin guns such as AR's. The mil-spec info is printed on the back of their boxes. Funny thing is, the only one I'm having any issues with is their new Ae223 military grade. All other AE and Federal have been working fine so far. You haven't said what brands you've tried, so I thought I would just throw this out there for ya. Good luck.
That is a very good question... One, I'm embarrassed to admit I am not sure of the answer..

Now that you mention it, The strikes/Dimples do look like they are enough that I would think they would have went off... I mean if you look at one of the ones that few that did not go off and compare with all the ones that did, they look pretty much the same.

I tried three brands one was Federal (White and Green box 55 GR .223) one of the other brands was Beck or Becks Ammunition... I was trying them out as they were factory Sub-Sonics as I wanted to see how quite they were with my suppressor... Turns out, even when they did fore they were pretty darn quite.. :)
 

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That is a very good question... One, I'm embarrassed to admit I am not sure of the answer..

Now that you mention it, The strikes/Dimples do look like they are enough that I would think they would have went off... I mean if you look at one of the ones that few that did not go off and compare with all the ones that did, they look pretty much the same.

I tried three brands one was Federal (White and Green box 55 GR .223) one of the other brands was Beck or Becks Ammunition... I was trying them out as they were factory Sub-Sonics as I wanted to see how quite they were with my suppressor... Turns out, even when they did fore they were pretty darn quite.. :)
PM me your email address and I'll gladly forward my communication email with Federal to you. May or may not help with your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey smullen, did you get your issue sorted out yet?? Just curious.
Not really...

I removed the bolt and cleaned it again, I did not see anything suspicious, but do to the Holidays and all the extra projects and such with work I've not had time to do any shooting or my ""Getting into reloading" project.... Though I have managed to build two nice benches one for the basement (for reloading) and one for the garage, just because you have to have a work bench in the garage...

If I don't get to it before then, I'm hoping to take the week off between Christmas and New Years and be able to do some shooting on a few of those days...

I'll keep updating here as I find anything, good or bad...
 

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smullen, are you actually getting light strikes or are you getting good strikes with no bang. I had this issue and after contacting Federal they told me to avoid using their ammo that had the mil-spec primers in my bolt gun because I "might get failures to fire". The mil-spec stuff is intended for the floating firing pin guns such as AR's. The mil-spec info is printed on the back of their boxes. Funny thing is, the only one I'm having any issues with is their new Ae223 military grade. All other AE and Federal have been working fine so far. You haven't said what brands you've tried, so I thought I would just throw this out there for ya. Good luck.
Someone has this backwards. The Mil-Spec primers are tougher, yes, so that the FA/SA weapons won't slam fire from a floating firing pin. With a Bolt action they aren't tough enough to keep the much heavier strike from the heavier firing pin from firing them.

I'm falling on the side of a headspace issue. Not with the rifle, but with the finished ammo. If the OP has a Hornady COAL measuring tool with headspace measuring adapter and proper sized insert he should check the fired case headspace measurement (case head to datum point on shoulder) and compare it with the same measurement on unfired rounds, especially the ones that failed to pop. I've seen more than a few reloaders fall into the trap of setting their sizing dies according to die makers instructions and then proceed to size cases that yield excessive headspace. When the ejector plunger pushes the case forward on the chamber the firing pin looses about 1/3 of it's striking distance. This often leads to a "dimple" but not enough "crush" of the primer pellet on the primer anvil. For reloaders, it's often diagnosed by loading a cartridge extra long so the bullet is jammed into the lands and the brass can't be pushed forward into the chamber. If there's no issue then they merely adjust their sizing dies out enough to keep the shoulder within .003" of the end of the chamber.

Factory ammo is mass produced and quality control is usually just a spot check unless match grade. If you buy "Bargain Boxes" you can get all kinds of surprises. This is one. Also, what works in one man's rifle can cause another to age rapidly and lose hair. :) :)
 

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Someone has this backwards. The Mil-Spec primers are tougher, yes, so that the FA/SA weapons won't slam fire from a floating firing pin. With a Bolt action they aren't tough enough to keep the much heavier strike from the heavier firing pin from firing them.

I'm falling on the side of a headspace issue. Not with the rifle, but with the finished ammo. If the OP has a Hornady COAL measuring tool with headspace measuring adapter and proper sized insert he should check the fired case headspace measurement (case head to datum point on shoulder) and compare it with the same measurement on unfired rounds, especially the ones that failed to pop. I've seen more than a few reloaders fall into the trap of setting their sizing dies according to die makers instructions and then proceed to size cases that yield excessive headspace. When the ejector plunger pushes the case forward on the chamber the firing pin looses about 1/3 of it's striking distance. This often leads to a "dimple" but not enough "crush" of the primer pellet on the primer anvil. For reloaders, it's often diagnosed by loading a cartridge extra long so the bullet is jammed into the lands and the brass can't be pushed forward into the chamber. If there's no issue then they merely adjust their sizing dies out enough to keep the shoulder within .003" of the end of the chamber.

Factory ammo is mass produced and quality control is usually just a spot check unless match grade. If you buy "Bargain Boxes" you can get all kinds of surprises. This is one. Also, what works in one man's rifle can cause another to age rapidly and lose hair. :) :)
Quote from Federal "This ammo was designed to be fired out of an AR style rifle due to the primer has a thicker cup and requires a harder firing pin strike such as an AR rifle gives. We recommend that it is to be used on firearms with free floating firing pins, such as an AR firearm."

I was just repeating what they told me. Guess it was just another case of misinformed product support people, eh?? Wouldn't be the first time I've heard of this happening.

Also, I've shot several more rounds of the mil spec stuff and had no issues with it. Go figure, two bad rounds in the first 10 and no issues in the next 30 rounds. Maybe I cried wolf to soon. :p:D
 

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Quote from Federal "This ammo was designed to be fired out of an AR style rifle due to the primer has a thicker cup and requires a harder firing pin strike such as an AR rifle gives. We recommend that it is to be used on firearms with free floating firing pins, such as an AR firearm."

I was just repeating what they told me. Guess it was just another case of misinformed product support people, eh?? Wouldn't be the first time I've heard of this happening.

Also, I've shot several more rounds of the mil spec stuff and had no issues with it. Go figure, two bad rounds in the first 10 and no issues in the next 30 rounds. Maybe I cried wolf to soon. :p:D
The guy who told you the AR strikes harder has probably never reassembled a Remington Firing pin assembly and installed it in the bolt. I have several AR's and can install the hammer spring by hand. The Remington firing pin requires a screw type press to compress the spring. Hard to figure out, right?
 

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The guy who told you the AR strikes harder has probably never reassembled a Remington Firing pin assembly and installed it in the bolt. I have several AR's and can install the hammer spring by hand. The Remington firing pin requires a screw type press to compress the spring. Hard to figure out, right?
I don't know enough to disagree with you, but what you say sounds logical. I just can't figure why they put this on the boxes of ammo with mil spec primers. What's your take on it?
AE223BL back of the box[483].JPG
 

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I don't know enough to disagree with you, but what you say sounds logical. I just can't figure why they put this on the boxes of ammo with mil spec primers. What's your take on it?
View attachment 2586
Other than the fact that they are Mil-Spec and not noted for the type of accuracy one with a Bolt Action is looking for I don't really know. Some say the cup is thicker, others claim it's the primer compound that's not as sensitive.

Unless one has ALL the data it's hard to truly know. I do know that if an AR will set one of these off a Bolt Action surely will.
 
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