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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 700 sps varmit and I like the stock that on it and was wondering if I can make the barrel a free floating one by just sanding away the stock under the barrel any input to this would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Any suggestions as what would be the best way to go about this?
 

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+1 to the socket or even a wooden dowel the size of the barrel and wrap sandpaper strip to it and sand away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Anything I should know before I just start taking my rifle apart? Like certain ways to take things apart or stuff like that? The only weapons I've ever took down were Mark 19 240B 249 M4 M2 and a few shotguns so in sure its no more complicated than any of those is it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How much does having a free floating barrel improve accuracy? I know it help but is it a big difference or will I even notice?
 

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Could be a lot or maybe a little. It's just one of many steps you should take. The first two things I do with any rifle I buy is free float the stock and grass bed the action.
 

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jerrschmitt said:
Could be a lot or maybe a little. It's just one of many steps you should take. The first two things I do with any rifle I buy is free float the stock and grass bed the action.
I am wondering if I should bed my incoming b&c stock, any advantages to using grass vs. glass?
 

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If you have a medicinal marijuana card your good to go! :cool: I think glass will beat grass and be a hell of alot cheaper too........Funny stuff fellas! :lol:
 

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What can only improve a rifle is worth giving a shot. I dont know to many that did a bedding job for the SPS Tac Hogue stock. I would bed that B&C stock. Actually you want to skim bed its what most call it because its a small layer of compound over the aluminum bed. The only reason to this is because the aluminum bedding is not the exact fit for the action and if and when you you get a chance just look at the recoil lug it has so much moving space and a bedding job will stop that and keep the action in place and secure. My $2 :)
 

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Muhr said:
jerrschmitt said:
Could be a lot or maybe a little. It's just one of many steps you should take. The first two things I do with any rifle I buy is free float the stock and grass bed the action.
I am wondering if I should bed my incoming b&c stock, any advantages to using grass vs. glass?

At my age, you take what you can get. :)
 

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O.E.F_M.P said:
Anything I should know before I just start taking my rifle apart? Like certain ways to take things apart or stuff like that? The only weapons I've ever took down were Mark 19 240B 249 M4 M2 and a few shotguns so in sure its no more complicated than any of those is it?
Considering the above equipment you have experience with, the rifle should be a breeze. For a quick reference, and I am not a gunsmith, I've always used the 'dollar bill' check to see if there is any contact between barrel and stock. I guess a piece of notebook paper will work in a pinch. As long as you can slide it between the barrel and stock without any obstructions you should be good to go.

Also, see if you can find out the inch pounds of tightness that's best for your setup and use a torque wrench when re-assembling. For example, I have a 700P with the HS Precision stock and the recommended torque is 65 inch-pounds for the stock screws.
 

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gdvan01 said:
O.E.F_M.P said:
Anything I should know before I just start taking my rifle apart? Like certain ways to take things apart or stuff like that? The only weapons I've ever took down were Mark 19 240B 249 M4 M2 and a few shotguns so in sure its no more complicated than any of those is it?
Considering the above equipment you have experience with, the rifle should be a breeze. For a quick reference, and I am not a gunsmith, I've always used the 'dollar bill' check to see if there is any contact between barrel and stock. I guess a piece of notebook paper will work in a pinch. As long as you can slide it between the barrel and stock without any obstructions you should be good to go.

Also, see if you can find out the inch pounds of tightness that's best for your setup and use a torque wrench when re-assembling. For example, I have a 700P with the HS Precision stock and the recommended torque is 65 inch-pounds for the stock screws.
65 inch-pounds with a steel floor plate. 45 inch-pounds with a factory (alloy) floor plate. You can crack the factory plate at 65. I took an armorer's course with rem & this is the factory spec.
Trigger guard
 

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Rem says that free floating is fine and improves accuracy for heavy barrels. Factory tapered barrels (hunting rifles, 700sp, bdl, adl etc.) do better with a factory stock that puts 14 pounds of pressure on the barrel. They also DO NOT recommend lapping the bolt as it changes the head space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
what do you mean by (floor plate)? and i have the heavy barrel so im deffinetly gonna free float the barrel. Also how do you tell if its steel or alloy?
 

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If you kept the floor plate of the magazine the same then you have a aluminum floor plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
is there an aftermarket one i can buy to improve it or is the one remmington designed just fine?
 

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I have only used the Remington one and its perfectly fine with no issue at all for me.
 
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