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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is a 3 shot group from my 308 using my handloads. The red cross is 1" and the faint grid is a 1/8" grid. All my shooting is 100 yards unless otherwise noted.



Here is a 3 shot group but I moved the scope on each shot. Lower left shot I moved scope to right and up. I then shot the upper right one. I covered these up wth white stickers and put 308 up. At the end of the day I took one shot from the bench and hit the following. I guess its ready to hunt with.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot to say on the last target I moved the scope after the second shot half the clicks back down and to the left that i adusted up and right from the first shot.
 

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I would say it's right on! Good shooting. It's really satifying to be able to shoot groups like that.

What are you currently shooting for a load?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The targets above was using

Brass: Remington
Primer: Remington 9.5
Powder: Varget 45.5gr
Bullet: Hornaday 150gr SST
COL: 2.80"
 

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Range day.



I will be upgrading the scope to a Nightforce Benchrest this fall so I can put the ACOG back on the AR where it belongs.
 

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Added a better scope. Same distance - 400m

Hot, dirty bore after sighting in 200y and 400m
Slow fire bench/bipod.



Much improved compared to above using the 4x AGOG.

Shorter range:

Wide view. 12"x18" paper



Close up



Remington 700 VSF 308Win



Nightforce NF1242NP1RR
12-42x56mm Benchrest NP-1RR

 

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Holy Crap!!!!!! Am I understanding correctly that each of the 4 shots is from a cold bore?
I wish my cold bore shots looked like that. That's impressive. You do realize your bolt handle
is on the wrong side.:lol:
 

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I fired approx 25 shots getting close to 200yd zero and playing with slow fire a bit.
Then we stopped fire for people to set up targets and I had to rack the rifle for 10-15 minutes. This allowed it cool down.

I had a 200yd target reserved just for my cold bore shots and I took two shots on that next.

After those two shots, I moved to other targets and experimented with more slow fire/rapid fire for at least another 30rds.

Then, when we had someone else that wanted to set up targets we had a range safe again / cool down.

I fired the second two cold bore at 200 and then I moved on to working on 400m zero.

Next time out, I'll probably start off with that 200yd shot again to see how it holds before I move out to 400m and then 600yd.

I might have to do some adjusting since I am about to tweak my hand load recipe again.
A friend and I have 3800 #34 primers to use up. (Miscommunication on who was going to buy them so we doubled up :D )

The PSL/Romak beats the snot out of cases so I'm giving up on reloading 7.62x54R for us. We'll just use cheap mil-surp ammunition for those and the Mosins.

I'll move the primers over to our .308 loads and we'll see how the mil-spec semi-auto primer meant for the floating firing pins works with my 700 and his Savage.

Then I'll try the bench rest primers and decide where to go from there (5000 rounds down the road).
 

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Forget the cold bore non sense, it is a cold SHOOTER! Next time to the range take a gun that in your mind has the biggest cold bore deviation. DO NOT shoot it first, shoot any of your other rifles for a group or two. Now take out your gun that shoots fliers with cold bore and see what it does.

99% of the time you will see there is no cold bore shot.

Hardmix
 

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Weather is about to turn ratty here. Next time the winds are fairly calm I want to get out to the range to try some cold weather shots and check the adjustment I made to my neck size/shoulder bump die.

I built a free standing target holder for 600y but I need to add a little more wind resistance. The wood stake slats I use need a little support / reinforcement to resist bending in any breeze.

I also need to drive the GPS over to that pole and see how far away it really is. I think it's about 1550m based on Google Earth. Maybe tomorrow morning when I am out.

As I understand it, cold bore doesn't usually make fliers. The supposition is that as a barrel heats up through multiple relatively rapid shots it can change the harmonics and even slightly sag -both of which can change the impact point. A perfectly clean vs soiled barrel also affects the shot.

Ideally, the only shot you want to take is the FIRST shot - which by definition is a cold bore shot. For my testing purposes, the first two shots fired from a barrel that has sat idle in shade in ambient conditions for at least 15 minutes and is comfortable for sensitive skin to touch are considered cold bore.
 

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Well, I sort of got out to 600yd this last weekend. Weather and schedule finally cooperated enough to at least try.

Gong painted and 8oz water bottle set up at 300m in case I needed to come shorter to zero. -Didn't need them.



Gong painted and 8oz water bottle set up at "400m".
Lower left corner was a zeroing strike. Adjustments made resulted in the other three hits. Oversize splash nearest center is two hits.

Water bottle was the final shot I took at "400m". It was semi-solid icewater. It exploded nicely the first shot I took at it.



For size reference, the GPS is 6.25" tall, 2.25" wide, and the display is about 2.25" tall and 1.5" wide.

From the bench I used, the "400m" gong measured in at an actual 385m distance. (420 yards)



Gong painted at 500m. First strike for zeroing was the bottom center one. Couldn't see it behind some shrubs between it and me but I heard the strike. I made an adjustment up on the scope, and aimed higher for the center of the top 1/3 of the gong. Top center was the next strike. Top right was shot #2 -a flier (I pulled it slightly). Then #3 was on the first and then I went after an empty gatorade bottle on the rail and missed. I returned to this gong and made another shot offset LEFT of the middle mark trying to get the same distance left as the miss right. I ended up a couple inches closer than I expected. I made the adjustment on the gatorade bottle and knocked it off the rail.



Measurement to the 500m gong right on the money.
501 meters = 548yards



A little more normal exposure with flash giving a better idea of the fading daylight.



Overexposed showing all five strikes.



The empty gatorade bottle with a huge hole. I had leaned a broken 3/4 clay in front of it to make it easier to see. I had to pick up the gatorade bottle and stand it back on the rail but these pieces of the clay were still on top of the rail. In the background partially covering the #13 lane sign is my 600y target.



502m



Best picture of the hole. To see the back bottom edge of the bottle and the raised center, you're looking through the hole.



Just after 5pm local 12/19/10
Winds almost calm. Temp 32F



Farthest target set. Used my target stands built for this purpose.



Target stands.
Behind them is the range competition "pits".
You can see part of the counterbalanced target frames that can be lifted on tracks.



547meters
598 yards



Light was fading and I was guessing at the scope setting. I couldn't see the hits at that distance on paper via the spotting scope so I just ran a dozen fairly rapid fire shots to get an average. I was aiming at the 1" red square (largest square) nearest the center of the entire target board. Smaller squares are 1cm, circle diameters from inside to outside are:
1cm, 1in, 2in, 4in, 8in, 12in. Radius measurements are marked on the larger circles 2", 4", 6".



Closer zoom.

I was aiming at the 1" red square (largest square) nearest the center of the entire target board. Smaller squares are 1cm, circle diameters from inside to outside are:
1cm, 1in, 2in, 4in, 8in, 12in. Radius measurements are marked on the larger circles 2", 4", 6".



Indoors better light and outer edge circled with green highlighter.
547meters
598 yards
Semi rapid fire in fading light.



Indoors better light and outer edge circled with green highlighter.
547meters
598 yards
Semi rapid fire in fading light.



547meters
598 yards
Semi rapid fire in fading light.



547meters
598 yards
Semi rapid fire in fading light.
Remington 700 VSF .308 Winchester
Handloads my lot# 101030ADh168amax445V
4 shot Chrony:
2583 Low
2610 High
2597
2594
(2596 avg)



Not near perfect, but I couldn't see the strikes on paper with the spotting scope at that distance in that light. Fingers cold and frankly, ready to go. So I basically quickly threw lead to finish off the lot. I also wanted the brass empty for my shoulder bump revision for the next and future lots.

Scope reticle travel adjustment information:

Three number coordinate system. First digit is the turn #. Each turn is 6moa, each moa is divided into 8 clicks.


What I call "bottom" of travel on the scope is
0-0-5
Top is
7-0-5
(336 clicks total = 42moa)

4-0-6
385m (verified photos above)

4-5-4
500m (verified photos above)

5-2-2 (estimated semi-verified)
547m (598y)

6-5-3 (10 clicks travel remain)
709m / 775y (paper calculation / not verified)

using 15moa drop reticle,
6-5-5 (8 clicks travel remain)
914m / 1000y (paper calc non-verified)
--15moa drop reticle is the one on the ranging baseline for my reticle -second from bottom-- scroll back up to see reference photo in previous post on this thread ^^ above ^^

using 20moa drop reticle, (bottom most provided)
6-0-5
914m / 1000y (paper calc non-verified)
Which leaves 48 clicks of (potential) adjustment

48/8 = 6 more MOA adjustment

1000y should be into transonic for this load and it starts losing accuracy as it rattles back into subsonic flight.

I was by myself for this run. If I have help next time, I may put someone in the pits and try to finish the zero verification at 600y.
 
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