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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was thinking about painting my 700P stock but not sure if i will do it myself or have it done. Is there anything I should be aware of doing this myself? I am thinking just a desert tan base with some darker browns to break it up.

Anyone with input or ideas let me know.
 

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Sounds like a plan! Spend your time on the prep and it should turn out great! One big advantage to painting your rifle is to cool it down. During the summer the black stock gets HOT, to the point if feels like your going to burn your face!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
By prep you mean cleaning it with some type of solvent and wipping it down to get all oils off right? Is there any other prepping I should be doing?
 

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Yes you want to make sure that everything you plan on painting is going to be oil free. Denatured alcohol will do just fine for that.
 

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Here is a pic of my new 700 P, I just finshed the camo on, waiting on my new rings and bolt knob for this gun gonna use the scope off my LTR. I used real leaves and dry wall tape thats sticky on both side for the fishnet look. I kinda wished I had got more Khaki on her than I did but it still suits me. :D
 

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Winxp_Man said:
Yes you want to make sure that everything you plan on painting is going to be oil free. Denatured alcohol will do just fine for that.
Works every time. Use the denatured alcohol in a nicely ventilated area...unless you're looking for a cheap buzz. Or headache.
 

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Below are the instructions I received from a member of another site:
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Acetone is all you will need. If you don't have acetone, rubbing alcohol works, too.

It's really all about degreasing everything, not about dulling it out.

If you want to be extra slick, you can use a hair dryer to get everything WARM (not HOT) before you spray.

Warming the kit before you spray will really make the paint stick well, but the hair dryer is really not needed.

Here is the recipe, which I cut and pasted from another site, too:

a.) Pick up some Krylon Camo Ultra-Flat in Olive Drab, Brown and Khaki.

b.) Degrease the entire rifle and kit with acetone.

c.) Mask off the areas on the scope you don't want paint to adhere. (I used Teflon tape, since it doesn't stick, and pipe tape where I needed it to stick).

d.) Paint the entire piece in OD green, top, bottom and sides. Wait 5 minutes so the paint looks flat/dry to the touch.

e.) Paint the bottom 3-4" of the piece in brown, including the bipod legs. Then paint some vertical and diagonal stripes in brown in those areas that need the outline broken up. Wait 5 minutes so the paint looks flat/dry to the touch.

f.) Find some vegetation in the backyard as a stencil, but don't go too busy. Some basic Y-branches make the starker contrasts in the smaller areas, and the leaves can work on larger areas.

For the most part, whatever you have in the AO works best.

Leaves work, but blow around a bit when you spray over them. If you want leaves, I recommend using artificial leaves with wires, so they hold shape.

g.) Hold your vegetation (stencils) about 1/2" from the piece (but do NOT touch the rifle), and burst spray the Khaki onto the vegetation from no more than 4-5" away, paying special attention to the areas where the OD and brown overlap. (That way, you will get a two-tone effect in those areas the vegetation covers).

Also, be sure to avoid symmetry, since it does not occur in nature.

When possible, spray in the same direction of the stencil. If you're holding it vertical, pulse spray vertically. If holding horizontal, spray horizontally, etc.

h.) Make sure you address the areas that are in front of the gun, like the muzzle, front of the stock, bipod feet and scope cover when it is open. (We have learned that lighter camo is better, so that's why we end with Khaki).

i.) Stand about 6-10" above the piece, and dust some brown on the top, which looks like dirt on top of the piece.

j.) If for some reason you don't like your first run, you can always try it again. Total cost is about $15 USD for the paint and acetone, and about a half hour to an hour of time.

A SH member in Australia practiced on an e-tool and an ammo box, before trying his rifle.

You may want to practice a bit before you do it for real -- but it's a LOT easier than some people would lead you to believe.

Lighter is better, but YOU decide how tan or green you want it to be. It's totally subjective. Look around your AO -- you'll see plenty of light, but NO OD green...

Also, you can spot paint or repaint whenever you want! Just use acetone to take it off, if you don't like how it turned out. The paint gives some decent rust protection, too.


edit - here's how mine turned out...

http://www.700rifle.com/forums/viewtopic.php?pid=6639#p6639
 

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Here is what I did to mine today its some what decent but only took me about 1 hour :/ .

This is what it looked like sanded with 400 grid paper.



This is after I ran some denatured alcohol on it to clean it all off.



Here is the first coat of tan I put on the stock.



And this is the whole rifle with some leave patterns.








I'm not done yet I still have to put down some dark brown streaks on it to finish it off to look like this sorta.

 

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Dude! (yea, I said dude...) That looks absolutely awesome!
 

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Hmmmmm Aron I have been thinking on doing the same thing with my rifle. Job well done my friend! New finish looks great. Now all I have to do is figure what color and camo pattern.........
 

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Looking good there Winxp Man:) Thats a nice leaf pattern, what type of leaves did you use for the pattern?
 

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Here's a couple I did a while ago



The pine needle camo is not so good against green grass but is almost invisible on the dry open paddocks that i hunt on.
 
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