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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought everybody should see this. I asked a friend of mine to mount my new scope to the SPS since he said he's done this before. Well, he will never touch one of my rifles again. Take a look at the bases, and yes that is silicone. Hopefully this is how you post pictures on this forum. If not let me know how.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4166274719/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4167034126/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4167034164/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4166274699/

And here's how many clicks it took to zero at 25 yards.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4167034144/

Thoughts, concerns, sarcasms? I have since removed all this (after many choice words), reinstalled with vise and levels, and eyeball boresighted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay. Maybe this will work.









 

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My only question would be, "WHY!!!!" I really don't believe that there could be a web site some place that tells people to silicone scope mounts.

At least you're on the right track now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I believe his exact words were, "There's no way water could get in there now to rust, and it'll keep it locked in place no matter how many rounds you put through it". Being an engineering student, I was at a loss for words as to how to explain his folly. I'm actually ticked off at myself for trusting him enough to not check his work, but you know what they say about assumption. It just didn't dawn on me that he of all people would do that... a prior service Marine.

The continuation of this story is when I took it to be boresighted at the local range, that the "armorer" there didn't believe this little civilian. Rather infuriating when that guy put everything back together without loc-tite or cleaning the receiver which still had silicone on it while they kept telling me I'm the idiot.

So, after much CLP, acetone, and elbow grease I have the SPS as pristine as possible. Other than never let either of them touch my weapons again, I hope I can lean on you guys a little if I've got technical questions. I'm afraid they'd tell me to bed the rifle with bondo.
 

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That is exactly why I began to learn how to work on and fix my own stuff. I can't do machine work on barrels but that's about all I don't do.

I know a lot of places tell you to use Loc-tite on your scope mounts and other stuff, but I never do. I change stuff around so much that it has never been a problem. If I was using my rifle for a serious purpose, then I would blue loc-tite everything.
 

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Ok, I do all my own work, but thats because i started working on .22s and alike, then moved up to building my SPS Tactical. I dont use loc-tite, didnt see a reason too. What idiot would use silicon on a firearm, mate, I certainly wouldn't let him touch any of my rifles. The only work I dont do is action and barrel work, Ive got all the gear, just not legally allowed to. Read up on what you would like to do, and read tutorials written by reputable people. Talk to gunsmiths about it and see what they recommend. Buy good tools and dont skimp out as you will come unstuck, ive spent a decent amount of money on gunsmithing tools that I can also use for other applications so they aren't a waste of time.

Doing it yourself is best as then YOU know that you have done it and then you will be more inclined to get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know it's sacrilege to even post pictures like that, but I just had to share it. So, my mistake for trusting an "expert". Lesson learned.

I've done the same as far as buying the tools. When I built an AR (M&P15T with many modifications) for a friend there were a few trips to Home Depot for necessities. After this silicone incident, I made an immediate trip to Gander for a Tipton gun vise and ordered some small levels because I do plan on changing to an inclined base at some point. Who knows what else I need but haven't realized it yet. That's for another topic as I'd like to keep this one for showing anyone else what happens when you assume.
 

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FYI, Sonofphil is a buddy of mine, but I'm not the idiot who did this with his mount/scope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The guy who did mount it has been a friend for over 12 years, and has continuously told me the whole time that he was a Marine recon sniper and made some wild claims. Such as 1/4" group at 1,000 yards with a Weatherby Mark V .300 win. mag.. Many people will embellish the truth, but with his mount job now I know for certain he's full of it. Watched him shoot once at the ranch. About 10 - 20 mph crosswind 50 degrees at 100 yards prone with Walmart standard Core-Lokt (I forget the weight). With used Remington 700 .270 he had a 2" or so best group after dialing in. At 200 it was 5". At 300 it was 12"+ with some misses. Must have had silicone under the scope.

Long story short, not taking his advice anymore. Still a loyal guy who'd give you the shirt off his back, but just full of it. Glad PALADIN pointed this forum out to me.
 

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I can't remember if I posted this here before, but what I did was bought some levels from a home depot type store like these: ($1.50 each)



Cut them down and glued them to a weaver scope base like this:



and mounted them to my rifle scope like this:



Then I just level up the rifle in the vise and install. I keep the levels on the rifle for long distance shooting.
 

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I have heard/read of that being done. Not by anyone that I would actually trust though. However, it actually would seem to be counterproductive to the idea of bedding. The silicon would flex way too much to actually insure a consistent fit between the base and the receiver. You would either tighten it down enough that it would squeeze the silicon out (thus negating the whole purpose of bedding) or you would have the base "floating" as opposed to bedding it onto the receiver.
For levelling, I like using an automotive feeler gauge. You mount the base and bottom rings, and then lay the scope in the rings halves and start the top halves of the rings onto the bottom. Get the rings snug but not tight. Then use the feeler gauge to insure that the bottom of the scope stays flat against it (and thus parallel to the base) while you snug the screws down evenly. Torque as appropriate and pull the gauge out. Of course you need glass that has a flat area on the bottom of the adjustment turret area to do this.
 

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Wow, that's crazy. Yeah, I pretty don't trust anyone with my guns...LOL By the way, ask him to show you a picture of that 1/4" group at a 1,000 yards. :lol:
 

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SemperFi said:
Wow, that's crazy. Yeah, I pretty don't trust anyone with my guns...LOL By the way, ask him to show you a picture of that 1/4" group at a 1,000 yards. :lol:
Yeah, That would be a record book entry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
He actually claimed it at 1,500 yards, but you guys would've thought I was making that up.
 

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1/4" at 1500yds, 150yds is possible, but not 1500.
 

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There's always guys around like that. You can spot them as soon as they open their mouth! :D

My Dad served in Vietnam with a guy who would write letters almost everyday about how much "combat" he was in. I mean it was like Rambo type stuff 24-7 according to this guy.
 
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