Scope mount debacle

Think I figured out the pic posting. Maybe. Beautiful silicone job he did. Found plenty in the chamber.

http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/ad268/azumadragon/?action=view&current=SPSmountFF.jpg

http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/ad268/azumadragon/?action=view&current=SPSmountFR.jpg

http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/ad268/azumadragon/?action=view&current=SPSmountRF.jpg

http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/ad268/azumadragon/?action=view&current=SPSmountRR.jpg

Clicks to zero at 25 yards. I had about 15 minutes left before it topped out.
http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/ad268/azumadragon/?action=view&current=SPSmountelevation.jpg

I believe his exact words were, "There's no way water could get in there now to rust, and it'll keep it locked in place no matter how many rounds you put through it". Being an engineering student, I was at a loss for words as to how to explain his folly. I'm actually ticked off at myself for trusting him enough to not check his work, but you know what they say about assumption. It just didn't dawn on me that he of all people would do that... a prior service Marine.

The continuation of this story is when I took it to be boresighted at the local range, that the "armorer" there didn't believe this little civilian. Rather infuriating when that guy put everything back together without loc-tite or cleaning the receiver which still had silicone on it while they kept telling me I'm the idiot.

So, after much CLP, acetone, and elbow grease I have the SPS as pristine as possible. Other than never let either of them touch my weapons again, I hope I can lean on you guys a little if I've got technical questions. I'm afraid they'd tell me to bed the rifle with bondo.

Ok, I do all my own work, but thats because i started working on .22s and alike, then moved up to building my SPS Tactical. I dont use loc-tite, didnt see a reason too. What idiot would use silicon on a firearm, mate, I certainly wouldn't let him touch any of my rifles. The only work I dont do is action and barrel work, Ive got all the gear, just not legally allowed to. Read up on what you would like to do, and read tutorials written by reputable people. Talk to gunsmiths about it and see what they recommend. Buy good tools and dont skimp out as you will come unstuck, ive spent a decent amount of money on gunsmithing tools that I can also use for other applications so they aren't a waste of time.

Doing it yourself is best as then YOU know that you have done it and then you will be more inclined to get it right.

The guy who did mount it has been a friend for over 12 years, and has continuously told me the whole time that he was a Marine recon sniper and made some wild claims. Such as 1/4" group at 1,000 yards with a Weatherby Mark V .300 win. mag.. Many people will embellish the truth, but with his mount job now I know for certain he's full of it. Watched him shoot once at the ranch. About 10 - 20 mph crosswind 50 degrees at 100 yards prone with Walmart standard Core-Lokt (I forget the weight). With used Remington 700 .270 he had a 2" or so best group after dialing in. At 200 it was 5". At 300 it was 12"+ with some misses. Must have had silicone under the scope.

Long story short, not taking his advice anymore. Still a loyal guy who'd give you the shirt off his back, but just full of it. Glad PALADIN pointed this forum out to me.

I can't remember if I posted this here before, but what I did was bought some levels from a home depot type store like these: ($1.50 each)



Cut them down and glued them to a weaver scope base like this:



and mounted them to my rifle scope like this:



Then I just level up the rifle in the vise and install. I keep the levels on the rifle for long distance shooting.

I have heard/read of that being done. Not by anyone that I would actually trust though. However, it actually would seem to be counterproductive to the idea of bedding. The silicon would flex way too much to actually insure a consistent fit between the base and the receiver. You would either tighten it down enough that it would squeeze the silicon out (thus negating the whole purpose of bedding) or you would have the base "floating" as opposed to bedding it onto the receiver.
For levelling, I like using an automotive feeler gauge. You mount the base and bottom rings, and then lay the scope in the rings halves and start the top halves of the rings onto the bottom. Get the rings snug but not tight. Then use the feeler gauge to insure that the bottom of the scope stays flat against it (and thus parallel to the base) while you snug the screws down evenly. Torque as appropriate and pull the gauge out. Of course you need glass that has a flat area on the bottom of the adjustment turret area to do this.