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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the way that I skim bedded my Remington 700 Sendero SF II 300 Win Mag. This is my way and anyone with better ideas is more than welcomed to post.

Step 1:

First you want to take the bolt out. Then you take off the trigger assembly and put in a small bag so yo don't misplace parts.

Step 2:

I taped the stock off completely around where extra bedding compound will come out. (Notice how much gap there is between the stock and action) At the barrel and recoil lug I usually do a 1" area in-front of the recoil lug. Some do less or a little more but 1" has worked for me perfectly with no issues on my .308.





Step 3:

Now that everything is masked off I was able to start the drilling of the area where the action and stock meet. Its the internal part of the taped off area. Note that not every part is supposed to get drilled like the area where internal mag liner sits. I usually drill in about 1/8 of an inch deep inside the stock and the aluminum bedding.






Step 4:

This is were I bust out sand paper. I use at least 100 grit paper for this. get the area where the bedding compound is going to sit in. Also I would not recommend using any kind of liquid cleaner. Most cleaners on the market are to strong and will cause oils from the stock fibers to come out thus creating a way for the compound not to stick, and can ruin a whole bedding job.





Step 5:

After you have drilled and sanded the bedding area of the rifle stock you will want to drop the action and barrel in the stock to check fit. I usually roll on some tape on the barrel right before the stock ends, and some about 2 1/2 " after the recoil lug. After you have all this done make sure that most of the bedding area is not touching the action because you want to have compound fill that area. If the front aluminum area is touching the action I would grind some down with some grinding rock. I had to do that to mine. after all the fitting is done you will want to make sure you get the dust out I used a computer air can to avoid any oils from air compressor to blow on the bedding area. (The pic only shows the band of tape at the recoil area but there was another at the end of the stock area on the barrel also.)




Step 6:

I now got some plumbers putty to fill in the areas in the action where I don't want the bedding compound to go into. I said I used plumbers putty but any kind of putty is good or play-doh. I shoved some in the the chamber area in the trigger area and all small screw whole ports. So after you get the action and barrel area all puttied up you are ready to put some shoe polish on the action and barrel area. This is gonna be the release agent for the whole fireworks here. Also take the action screws and cover them up really good with the shoe polish to avoid them sticking in case compound get in the screw hole area.



Step 7:

After double checking all the steps above for good measures, and made sure that everything is a go I mixed the compound for the glass bedding job. Now this is where people will agree to disagree. I personally used the Red & Black JB Weld and it has worked for me for a whole year and some on my .308. But here is a list of other compounds off the top of my head: Marine Tex, Devcon, JB Weld, and glass bedding kits from Brownells also works from what I have read on other forums. I personally find the JB Weld enough. It is resistant up to 39xx psi which is more then enough for a rifle bedding. Some say it shrinks but again from my experience of over a year with my .308 its been perfectly fine. Here is the JB specs http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php . This is easy to use and its 1:1 mix ratio. So now you get it all mixed really good and your ready to start filling the area. You will have to maybe wait just a little because its really drippy at first. So start pasting the compound on the stock. As you put it on you will notice the air pockets forming. The way that I took care of these is with a small allen wrench. I put all the compound on and started stabbing the allen wrench around to get rid of all the air pockets that will form because of the holes that are drilled into the stock to create a bonding grip between the compound and stock.

At the same time you will have to watch out for the the action screw holes not to get the compound in there. Also remember the step above this to cover the action screws with plenty of release agent (shoe polish).




Step 8:

Now your ready to set the action into the stock. You will want to do this slowly and make sure that the fit is good. As you set the action into the stock bedding compound will start coming out from the edges don't worry because its not going to stick cause of the release agent. This is the part were you have to be careful not to squeeze out to much compound. As you set the action in look at the front tape making sure the barrel is in right and straight. After you got the action all set good into the stock you can now put the bottom plate inside the bottom of the stock and screw the action to the stock. You don't want to tighten the screw to much just a tad bit snug until you see more compound come out and but not much because again you will squeeze out to much and the action will be contacting the aluminum bedding which we want to avoid. Remember that this is a skim bedding not a full bedding job were you grind out a lot more material from the bedding area. So now you are done with the hard part. Now let the rifle sit for about 8 hours to cure before it can be taken apart.





Step 9:

Now after about 8 hours you have the compound cured plenty to take apart the action from the bedded stock. You will have to watch out when doing this because its gonna be stiff when your going to take it apart. I use a mallet to hit the action screws to pull the action and stock apart. You will have to mess with this part really slow to not break things. Once the stock is out you will have to take all the masking tape off and start trimming the compound from were it came out on the edges. I used a utility knife to cut the edges off the clean up the stock from excess compound. I also used some denatured alcohol to clean the release agent from the action and some that got left on the new bedding in the stock. After all this is done you can now put the rifle together and enjoy the newly bedded rifle. :D (Note how much of a gap there was between the action and stock. That is in no way good for a rifle that you want to shoot with.)












I did this write up kinda late and I'm a little tired and sorry if I missed something or if its miss written. More then welcomed to comment and I will fix if needed.


Thanks for looking

Aron-
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I have groups from the Sendero before. Good thing I remembered to do that. Now I'm waiting for my 5-20x50 HD SFWA scope to come in because I sold the my whore scope :D (The Vortex CrossFire 4-16x50 I had on it. This scope has been on all my rifles at one point :) thats why its a whore hahaha ) but I talked to a buddy of mine to send me one of his Mark 4's so I can have a temp glass on the rifle. I will post results the minute I get a glass back on it.
 

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That's looks great. In fact it has inspired me to do my 700 police model I have some minkoil for a release agent it should work good to shouldn't it? Have you check your groups since the bed job?
 

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Great write up! About the only thing I do different is to buy a pair of 1/4-28 bolts and cut the heads off to screw into the action in place of the action screws. That way, I can drop the action with screws attached in from the top. Then I use a padded C clamp to hold the action until it sets. That way i don't have to worry about getting goop into the action when screwing in the action screws.


Jezzro2004:
Don't know anything about Mink oil as a release. I use automotive paste wax. Lots of guys use Kiwi shoe polish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't know about that either but as long as there is plenty of oily agent on the action, and recoil lug and the part of the barrel then your good to go. But to be safe and not have your action sticking I would use the Kiwi shoe polish, or the car turtle wax also works like jerrschmitt posted. As for goups well I sold the the Vortex scope I had on the rifle to help fund for my SWFA SS 5-20x50 scope. I will try to borrow a buddy of mines Mark 4 and see how it will group after the bedding. I do have targets of before.


Aron-
 

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Sounds good. I got 2 days of work left and I'm gonna do they 700P. I have got plenty of the black kiwi shoe polish in a can. Ill make a post as well on the Progess when I get time. Any other pointers you guys can give me. It looks pretty straightforward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The only thing that I can say is the tape on the barrel make sure that your barrel is aligned good with the stock. I forgot to post pics of the tape at the front of the stock and about an 1" before the recoil lug.
 

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Ok and that where I need to bed is about 1 inch in front of recoil lug as you have pictured and it should meet the tape on the barrel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ya it should meet the tape but I will post pics of how I did that part just to be clear. I actually had some tape also laid down in the barrel channel. Hope this makes sense.
 

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Ok. Yea I'm following you. So at 8 hours the jb weld is it fully cured or just cured enough to pop loose and clean up? Sorry I have asked so many questions,lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Its cured enough to mess with and clean up. The last job I did I didn't go out and shoot for a whole week just to make sure its at its full strength.

Also when you add the tape make sure make sure that the gap between the barrel and the stock is good and that the barrel is free floated or not to much of a gap. Mess around with this before you actually start mixing the bedding compound.
 

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Okm I read elsewhere a gap of .001 was good between action and stock to give the bedding a layer? And that the gap of .001 could be acheieved by taping the barrel as you mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If its a little more that will not effect anything at all. If you follow the steps I posted you should be GTG :)

Also dont forget to post results :)
 

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Will do thanks again
 

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Well I got it done will try to post all my pics soon. It turned out like yours so I'm happy. I will say after sitting together to cure outside in 80+ degree weather that after about 3 hours the action lifted out flawlessly the mink oil paid. off. I tried to do everthing the way you did and everything turned out like yours. So I wanna say thanks to the post.+1 on the gap that it fills. It would have to make a difference at longer ranges
 

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Well Here is some pics of the whole project. I used play-doh, and kiwi mink oil, the fit is great. Can't believe the gap between the action and stock. Thanks sgain for the tutorial.




 

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Well here's a couple pics of my base I went ahead and bedded it as well. You would be suprised how much the back of the action drawed the base warping it prior to bed when I had the jb weld in there you could see the flex slightly.



 
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